Dr. Md. Zulhas Uddin, a highly respected academician and expert in textile engineering, steps into the role with a commitment to elevating the quality of education, research, and innovation at BUTEX. Known for his extensive contributions to the textile sector, Dr. Uddin’s leadership is anticipated to drive strategic advancements at the university, particularly in cutting-edge textile research and development and fostering industry-academic collaborations.

Dr. Uddin succeeds Professor Dr. Shah Alimuzzaman, who has served as the fourth vice chancellor since April 30, 2023. Under Professor Alimuzzaman’s tenure, BUTEX saw notable progress in infrastructure development and academic initiatives, which Dr. Uddin is expected to build upon as the fifth vice chancellor of the university.

Established on December 22, 2010, through the upgrading of the College of Textile Technology, BUTEX was founded with a vision to enhance higher education and research opportunities within Bangladesh’s textile sector. Since then, BUTEX has become a hub for textile education and innovation, contributing significantly to the country’s textile industry, a crucial sector in Bangladesh’s economy.

Dr. Uddin’s appointment is welcomed with optimism by the BUTEX community and the wider academic and industrial sectors, as his tenure promises a continued emphasis on excellence and the creation of impactful knowledge in the realm of textile engineering.

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At present global RMG market value is around 1000 billion USD. By exporting about 165 billion USD China is in top rank now. As you know, Bangladesh is holding 2nd position by exporting RMG products of 48 billion USD.

Alhamdulillah. We Bangladeshi are so grateful to almighty Allah. We have received following valuable gifts from Almighty Allah: –                             

1. Workforce:

Here in Bangladesh, there is abundant and cost-effective workforce.

• Position in world map:

Our mother land is at very favorable position in the world map having suitable sea ports & Bay of Bengal.                        

• Availability of raw materials:

Here necessary raw materials can be arranged from domestic sources & neighbor countries easily.  

Moreover, the highest number of LEED certified Green Factory is in Bangladesh. Beside this, there are a lot of fully compliance and semi compliance factories (around 8000) with many lacs skilled & trained employees. Despite of above-mentioned special & rare facilities we have captured only 11% of total RMG market. So, we have vast opportunity to expand our export business largely onward.     

• Actually, assigned so called in charges of our country do focus to take merely the taste of the cream of RMG business. But none of us think of making Merchandisers. A Merchandiser is a shadow of business owner in a word. He is the highest responsible personnel & the most important decision maker of the industry.  Around 84% export earning comes through RMG Sector. Factory managements want more and more RMG export orders for feeding of their production lines.          
• Kindly be noted clearly, only merchandiser can bring export orders from overseas customers. Each year Bangladesh needs a lot of merchandisers. Overseas buyers also need more and more high salaried brilliant merchandisers for taking care of their RMG programs. But sorry to say that there is no public university in Bangladesh which can teach & create Merchandisers. So, we are requesting University Grant Commission to include the subject “Merchandising” in IBA of DU, JU, RU etc. From so called private universities we are not getting knowledgeable freshers.

So same time we (group of experience merchandisers & buying house owners) are trying to build up a specialized university named BARC Business University (BBU). It will try to create international standard Merchandiser.

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Education is considered an indispensable tool for human development. The rational growth of an individual is expected to be accelerated through receiving education. But in many instances, education may not accomplish what we universally claim unless it equips the individuals with knowledge and skills crucial for personal and professional growth. Across the world, the skills gap is leaving millions of youths unprepared for the job market despite their education.

The report published by the World Economic Forum-2024 claims that fifty percent of today’s global workforce needs to upskill or reskill to stay relevant. It also projects the figure to be at ninety percent by 2030if the issue remains unaddressed, resulting in a staggering global GDP loss of 15 trillion US dollar.  In Bangladesh it is worth noticing that over the years we have seen a quantitative progress in the education sector stating the widespread accessibility of the people of different socio-economic context to education with high enrollment at primary and secondary level of education.  Besides, the higher education in public universities and colleges affiliated with national university, privatization of tertiary education has opened up new possibilities contributing significantly for inclusive education. But the question may be pertinent to raise; what will we do with the revolution in education when it fails to equip learners with pragmatic life skills? 
However, in the era of digitalization, how far it would be rational to confine the learners to the traditional education setup where the world prioritizes competence-based education to mitigate the challenges in the advent of Artificial Intelligence (AI), Robotics and Internet of Things. Given the advances in technology and artificial intelligence, skill-based education has been instrumental.

Skill-based education is an approach emphasizing the development of one’s practical skills required to thrive in their chosen field. It goes beyond traditional knowledge-based learning focusing on theory and information. It aims at transforming knowledge into skills and learning into insight contributing significantly to align with the technological era and empowering students with the expertise the employers seek in a rapidly evolving global landscape. It not only shows the individuals the way of livelihood but also accelerates holistic development of a nation.
In the global landscape the countries such as Singapore, Switzerland, and South Korea have emerged as the pioneers of vocational education and training where other countries have considered them models to emulate. But these days in terms of prioritizing skill-based learning in the mainstream of education European countries have reached at the top of the index. They have successfully incorporated vocational training in the education system contributing to high employment and robust economies.
The Global Education Report-2022 states that in case of ranking for skill-based education Finland remains the top with a score of 84.8 followed by Sweden with a score of 84.3. out of 100. New Zealand and Singapore have appeared as third and fourth respectively in the ranking while the Netherlands have secured the fifth in the ranking. Besides, Germany, Japan, and Australia have scored between 60 to 73 in terms of the implementation of skill-based education while only 14 percent students of Bangladesh have received technical qualifications corresponding to a dire circumstance of the skill-based education in the country. 
In Bangladesh in recent years, we have seen the growth of enrollment in Technical and Vocational Education and Training (TVET). The country has realized TVET as the vital tool for economic development. Following its graduation to middle income country in 2026 and upper middle income one by 2031, the country has set some strategies emphasizing skill-based and technology-centered education that are supposed to uplift many indicators of achieving SDGs and help to build knowledge economy. However, plans and policies can hardly benefit us unless these are not implemented effectively. 
Studies have revealed that skill mismatch has contributed to escalating youth unemployment in the country. The scenario is more frustrating amid the educated youth. According to the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) study, more than one-third of the total youth labor force in Bangladesh with higher education is unemployed. A recent report published in an English daily reveal that around 30% of Bangladeshi graduates are unemployed due to the education system emphasizing theoretical knowledge and neglecting practical skills necessary for employability.  It is good to see that 65% of the country’s population falls in the category of the working age group.  But in many cases, we have failed to reap the benefits of it for staying them unutilized for years due to existing skill gaps and mismatches. According to the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS), 96% of the population lacks essential skills impacting production sectors significantly. 
However, harmonious development of a country is completely centered on how it has the ability to exploit its manpower. Upon this circumstance skill-based education should be at the forefront for creating a skilled workforce that drives innovation and economic growth and lays the strong base for achieving SDGs. So, let us take concerted efforts to prioritize skill-based education and training crucial for creating a sustainable future for all.

The writer is Vice Chancellor (D) of Prime University

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The research included a 600 square kilometre 3D seismic survey from Shahbazpur to Elisha, which found a recoverable resource of 2.423tcf. An additional 152.6-line-km 2D seismic survey in Char Fasson found another 2.686tcf, according to Bapex. The joint study began in 2020 and concluded in June 2024. The findings have been submitted to the Ministry of Power, Energy and Mineral Resources, the Bangladesh Oil, Gas and Mineral Corporation (Petrobangla), and Bapex.

The research report indicates a 10% chance of finding 2.423tcf of gas in Shahbazpur and Elisha, and 2.686tcf in Char Fasson, totalling 5.109tcf. At the current LNG spot market price of $10.46 per million British thermal unit (MMBtu), this gas resource is valued at approximately Tk6.5 lakh crore. The report also shows a 50% chance of identifying 3.391tcf of gas at these sites and a 90% chance of finding at least 1.809tcf. Alamgir Hossain, former general manager of Bapex’s Geological Department, told The Business Standard, “There is a possibility of finding more than 5tcf of gas. Historically, while studies estimated 2tcf, actual extraction has reached up to 3 or 4tcf.” This discovery is significant, being the largest since the Bibiyana gas field was found in 1998. Although the Shahbazpur field was identified in the mid-1990s, it was considered small until this recent study.

Muhammad Amirul Islam, a researcher involved in the study and a representative of Norwegian multinational energy company Statoil (now Equinor), told TBS, “This research meets international standards and relies on seismic data, oil lock data, core samples, and advanced technology like supercomputers and top-quality labs. “These methods ensure the findings are reliable. If development projects based on this research go ahead, they could cover a significant part of Bangladesh’s energy needs.” He added, “Drilling at least 49 new wells in the entire Bhola area could address household and CNG gas shortages, help reduce inflation, and lower the cost of goods.”

Petrobangla Chairman Janendra Nath Sarkar told TBS, “We have a Memorandum of Understanding with Russian Gazprom to explore and survey gas. The Bhola region has significant potential. We plan to connect Bhola’s gas to the national grid with pipelines running from Bhola to Barisal and then from Barisal to Khulna. “We also aim to transport gas to Dhaka using LNG and CNG methods. Tenders for these projects will be available soon, inviting multiple companies to participate. Additionally, we are working to cut LNG imports and boost domestic gas supply.” The research report states that Bhola currently has 5 wells producing 80 million cubic feet of gas per day (mmcfd). Four more wells are ready, which could add another 80mmcfd. Additionally, 5 proposed wells could supply 100mmcfd within two years. There are 14 other well sites that might produce 210mmcfd.

In Char Fasson, six geological structures have been identified where 30 wells could be drilled, potentially producing 450mmcfd. If all these wells are operational, daily production in Bhola could reach 920mmcfd, which would help ease the gas crisis and reduce dependence on expensive LNG imports. Geologist and energy expert Prof Badrul Imam said, “Bhola and Sylhet are our most promising gas-rich regions. We need to speed up drilling operations in Bhola and prioritise building the gas pipeline.” However, he cautioned against relying only on Bapex for exploration, as the company’s capacity is still growing. “Joint exploration with Petrobangla and foreign companies would be more effective in boosting domestic gas production,” he added. Gazprom, which has been active in Bangladesh for over a decade, has drilled 20 wells, adding around 4.5tcf to the gas reserves. These wells currently produce 300mmcfd.

Petrobangla officials noted that Bhola’s gas fields were identified 30 years ago, but pipeline construction was delayed due to economic concerns. With increased reserves, plans for pipeline construction are now moving forward. Currently, Bhola’s gas is supplied on a limited scale to local power plants and small industries. The country’s daily gas demand is about 4,000mmcfd, but only 2,633mmcfd is supplied, creating a shortfall of 1,367mmcfd. To address this deficit, Bangladesh relies heavily on imported LNG.  However, the closure of one of Summit’s floating LNG terminals for over three months has reduced LNG supply by 500mmcfd, worsening the gas shortage for industries and power plants.

Various sectors affected by gas crisis

Gas-based industries, such as those in spinning, dyeing, printing, cement, ceramics, and iron and steel, have seen their production fall below 30% because of the gas shortage. Around 700 textile factories, part of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association, are facing severe disruptions. Factory owners report that they need 15 pounds per square inch (PSI) of pressure for boiler operation, but many are only receiving between 1.5 and 3 PSI, with some getting no gas at all. This has caused major production issues. CNG filling stations also suffer from low gas pressure, leading to long queues of vehicles waiting to refuel. The gas exploration potential in Bhola could help address these problems.

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Jute is a natural textile fiber obtained from jute plant. About 3% of the nation’s total export earnings come from jute and jute-related items. The amount of money earned from the export of raw jute and jute products is $1,048.21 million USD. Jute fibers normally used to make Plain-Woven Fabric, Sacking (Loosely Woven Cloth), Food-Grade Jute Cloth, Yarn, Carpet Backing Cloth, and bio-degradable polybag and in many composite materials. Due to the special limitations of the spinning process, short fibers are not suitable for efficient production and therefore end up as waste. Jute mills generate many sorts of waste while processing jute fibers.

Caddis, floating dust, and sliver or thread waste are the three main wastes. JBO-based (JBO – Jute Batching Oil) and SBO-based (SBO – Soybean Oil Based) emulsions generated 17.90% and 21.26% waste, respectively. Many methods have been developed for the proper utilization of this waste, one of which is the method of separating nanofibrils or nanocrystals from the waste short fibers.  In recent study, Jute fiber waste is now possible to make nanocellulose and Jute strike could be converted into Charcoal. In Figure 1 shows the process of making alpha-cellulose from jute Caddies (Jute waste). Nanocellulose is obtained from Alpha-cellulose in a Mechanical process.

Nanocellulose fiber is a substance derived from cellulose, a naturally occurring polymer present in various sources, including byproducts of agriculture and plants. In words, Nano sized cellulose materials derived from cellulose material are called nanocellulose. They could be cellulose nanocrystals (CNC or NCC), cellulose nanofibers (CNF), or bacterial nanocellulose. Nanocellulose is biodegradable, non-toxic and no adverse effects on health and environment. It has notable features such as a substantial surface-to-volume ratio, elevated tensile strength, flexibility and stiffness, along with commendable dynamic mechanical, electrical, and thermal capabilities. In Electrical and optoelectrical devices, transparent nano paper device, biodegradable composites, medicine, cosmetics, and health care applications.

Process of Making Nanocellulose from Jute Waste:

Nanocellulose is made from waste of jute fiber by the combined action of a high-energy planetary ball milling technique with chemical treatment. The primary compounds of jute fiber are cellulose (alpha-cellulose), hemicellulose, and lignin. The chemical process defibrillates the fiber structure and extracts lignin and hemicellulose from jute fiber.

What is Planetary ball milling? 

The most used technique for breaking down solid material mechanically is the planetary ball milling technique. It has one turn disc and 2 or 4 containers that rotate in opposite directions. The centrifugal force is produced by rotation around its axis. The working process of Planetary ball milling is illustrated in figure.

Steps for producing nanocellulose from Jute waste:

Step-1: Initially, preparing small segment of 30mm length by cutting the length of jute fibers.

Step-2: Removes the hemicellulose and lignin from jute fibers by Chemical treatment. Mercerization by 18% Sodium Hydroxide at room temperature for 120 min

Step-3: 1M H₂SO4 treatment at 80˚C for 60 min.

Step-4: 4% NaOH treatment at 80˚C for further 60 min. 

Step-5: After Chemical treatment, grinding of jute fibers was carried out by a planetary ball milling machine Pulverisette 7 manufactured by Fritsch®

The special process of milling allows for the production of nanoparticles from any type of material, including waste textile fibers. It is universal in nature and operates simply. This method has a great deal of potential for industrial application because it can generate massive amounts of nanoparticles.

Nanocellulose from Jute Applications in Sustainable Textiles:

1. Nanocellulose fibers as reinforcing agents in textile composites.
2. Nanocellulose fibers for functional textile coatings.
3. The preparation of biocomposites.
4. Nanocellulose fibers for the development of new sustainable textile materials.
5. Pickering Emulsifiers from nanocellulose.
6. Wood Adhesives.
7. Biomedical Applications.
8. Aerospace.
9. Defense.
10. Construction.
11. Automobiles.

Challenges of nanocellulose in Bangladesh:

1. Cost of production.
2. Capturing the market of nanocellulose based material
3. Proper maintenance of production
4. Scalability.
5. Dispersibility.
6. Durability in Textile Matrices.

Market Size of Nanocellulose:

According to Straitsresearch , In 2022, the market for nanocellulose was estimated to be worth USD 756.8 million worldwide. It is forecast to increase at a CAGR of 21.66% over the projected period (2023–2031), reaching USD 4,418.8 million by 2031. Nanocellulose mainly used to Package foods and alcoholic beverages by the packaging industry. It also used as Composites, pharmaceutical and coating material in different industries. Eco-friendly, Strength, versatility and ability to be recycled these characters make it demandable.

Conclusion:

Production of nano cellulose from waste fiber of jute can be one of the profitable applications of jute waste in Bangladesh. Jute is one of the main cash crops of Bangladesh. Proper use of jute can take the country’s economy to unique heights. where the demand for nano textiles and nano cellulose is increasing in the world, but nano textiles are not progressing in our country. We should not only limit ourselves to the traditional textile and garment industries but also look at nano textiles, nano cellulose. We should enter the world market of nanocellulose, nano textile, Smart Textiles. We must capture the world market of smart textile for sustainability of our textile sector.  Nanocellulose from jute waste would be the best opportunities for us. There are many methods and raw materials for the production of nano cellulose, the most readily available and most produced raw material in the country is jute.

References:

1. Nanocellulose in Textiles: A Potential Resource for Sustainable Textile Manufacturing, https://chemrxiv.org/…/article…/6585323a66c1381729c645d4
2. Commercial application of cellulose nano-composites – https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30847286
3. Investigation on Wastage Analysis of Jute Fiber Spinning Using JBO and Soybean Oil-Based Emulsion. https://www.butex.edu.bd/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/ICTSE-126.pdf
4. Preparation of nanocellulose from jute fiber waste https://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/preparation-of-nanocellulose-from-jute-fiber-waste.html
5. Acidulated Extraction of Nanocellulose from Jute Fibre Wastes https://renupublishers.com/images/article/IJBSv8n2c.pdf
6. Nanocellulose:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanocellulose
7. Importance of functionalized jute fibers in the field of Nano cellulose for the preparation of biodegradable
8. Nano composites: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S2214785323000469
9. Nanocellulose Market Size, Growth and Forecast to 2031  https://straitsresearch.com/report/nanocellulose-market
10. Review of recent research in nano cellulose preparation and application from jute fibers https://www.researchgate.net/publication/301735735_Review_of_recent_research_in_nano_cellulose_preparation_and_application_from_jute_fibers

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Simultaneously, the garment sector has played a pivotal role in driving our economy forward. Employing around 1 crore people, this sector has been instrumental in ensuring our export income remains robust. When considering that each worker supports a family of four, nearly 5 crores of our population rely on the garment industry for their livelihood. Since its inception in 1978, the sector has grown to become one of the largest contributors to our export economy. Together, the efforts of our expatriates and the garment industry have ensured food security and a steady income for 11 crores of Bangladeshis, making these two sectors the backbone of our nation.

Yet, despite these significant contributions, there remains untapped potential within our expatriate community. Beyond sending remittances, our expatriate brothers have the power to significantly impact our garment sector and the broader economy by acting as ambassadors and investors. Many Bangladeshi expatriates have built successful businesses abroad, gaining a reputation for their entrepreneurial skills. There is a large section among them who are highly educated and well-versed in international markets. These individuals can play a crucial role in promoting Bangladeshi products, including our versatile garments, in the countries where they reside. By taking on the responsibility of branding and marketing our products, expatriates can open new markets and increase demand for Bangladeshi goods.

Over the past five years alone, expatriates have sent nearly $105 billion back to Bangladesh, an amount that has been critical in maintaining foreign exchange reserves and supporting countless families. During the same period, the garment industry has exported goods worth approximately $200 billion, providing employment to millions and further bolstering the country’s economy. Together, these contributions have ensured Bangladesh’s steady economic progress and helped navigate global economic challenges.

However, recent events have highlighted the immense power and influence that expatriates hold in shaping the country’s future. When remittances saw a decline, the impact on the economy was immediate and significant, underscoring the crucial role these funds play. This demonstration of economic power has had far-reaching consequences, including political implications that have shaken the current regime.

If we can create a long-term plan that encourages expatriates to take an active role in promoting and selling Bangladeshi products, it could lead to a new era of growth for our garment sector. Many are already doing this on a smaller scale, but with the right support and incentives, this effort could expand significantly. The collaboration between our garment industry and the expatriate community could usher in a new dawn for Bangladesh’s economy.

This is where our policymakers and industry leaders must step in. Organizations such as BGMEA, BKMEA, and FBCCI should actively engage with the expatriate community, providing them with opportunities to act as international ambassadors for the garment sector. By doing so, we can harness the full potential of our expatriates, turning them into key players in the global market. I urge the leaders of these organizations to recognize the value of our diaspora and work towards integrating their efforts with our national economic strategies.

Yet, even as we celebrate the successes of our expatriates and the garment sector, we must not forget the remaining 6 crores of our population who continue to struggle. These individuals are an integral part of our society, and their well-being is crucial for the overall health of our nation. The disparities they face must be addressed, and solutions must be found to ensure that they too can benefit from the progress we make as a nation.

In the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic, I have personally experienced the challenges that many continue to face. The struggle for survival has made it clear that accurate information and transparency are vital for making informed decisions that affect our future. Misinformation can have devastating consequences, whether in social, economic, or family-related matters. It is our duty to ensure that the next generation has access to accurate data so they can plan and build a better future.

As someone involved in the garment industry, I feel a deep sense of responsibility to share my experiences and thoughts, despite the challenges I face. By voicing our stories and ideas, we can help others understand the complexities of our economic landscape and inspire them to strive for a more equitable future. Our progress should not be measured solely by new businesses or booming markets but by how well we support all members of our society. In conclusion, the collaboration between expatriates and local exporters is not just a strategic move but a necessary one for achieving Bangladesh’s ambitious goals. By recognizing their power and encouraging their active participation in rebuilding Bangladesh, we can set the stage for a new era of prosperity. This is not just about economic growth; it is about creating a Bangladesh where every citizen, whether at home or abroad, has the opportunity to contribute to and benefit from the nation’s success. Let us learn from the past, plan wisely for the future, and work together to create a Bangladesh where every member of our society can thrive.

Salauddin, Director, Reaz Garments, Head of Operations, Bunon

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Early Beginnings and Private Sector Initiative

The journey of Bangladesh’s garment sector began with private initiatives in the late 1970s. High labor costs in developed countries prompted garment factories to relocate to countries with cheaper labor, creating an opportunity for Bangladesh due to its low wages and surplus labor force. Entrepreneurs in Bangladesh capitalized on this opportunity, establishing garment factories that would later become the backbone of the country’s economy.

Government Policy Support

From the outset, the Bangladeshi government provided extensive policy support to nurture the nascent garment sector. Key policy measures included:

1. Duty Draw Back and Bond Facility: Initially, the government implemented a duty draw back system, allowing entrepreneurs to reclaim duties paid on imported raw materials after exporting the finished goods. Due to delays and corruption in this system, the government introduced the bond facility, enabling garment manufacturers to import raw materials duty-free, significantly reducing production costs and enhancing competitiveness.
2. Back-to-Back Letters of Credit (LCs): Introduced in the mid-1980s, this system allowed entrepreneurs to secure the necessary raw materials and ancillary products without upfront payments, with banks bearing the financial responsibility. This innovation was crucial in reducing financial barriers for new entrants in the industry.
3. Cash Incentives: In the late 1990s, the government provided a 25% cash incentive to the textile and clothing sector, which was later reduced to 15% and then 5%. These incentives helped boost the industry’s growth by increasing profitability and encouraging investment.
4. VAT Exemption: From the fiscal year 2004-05, the garment sector was exempted from value-added tax (VAT), further reducing the financial burden on manufacturers.

The Role of Government Officials and Bankers

Government officials, including customs officers from the National Board of Revenue (NBR), and bankers played a pivotal role in the industry’s growth. These officials, often with experience in mentoring businesspeople, provided crucial guidance and support to emerging entrepreneurs. They shared expertise in customs bonded warehouse systems and facilitated financial support, enabling entrepreneurs to navigate the complexities of international trade and finance.

After the independence in 1971, Bangladesh was one of the poorest countries in the world. No major industries were developed in Bangladesh when it was known as East Pakistan, due to the discriminatory attitudes and policies of the government of the then West Pakistan. So, rebuilding the war-ravaged country with limited resources appeared to be the biggest challenge.

The industry that has been making crucial contributions to rebuilding the country and its economy is none other than the readymade garment (RMG) industry, which is now the single biggest export earner for Bangladesh. The sector accounts for 81% of total export earnings of the country.

One notable example from the late 1980s involves a group of entrepreneurs who, with the collaborative efforts of experienced industry veterans and supportive government officials, established a successful apparel factory. Bankers took significant risks to provide the necessary financial backing, demonstrating their belief in the potential of these entrepreneurs and the RMG sector.

My father, Mr. Reaz Uddin, is one such example. In 1974, he sought opportunities to export readymade garments and regularly corresponded with the Trading Corporation of Bangladesh (TCB). Through persistent efforts and with the guidance of the TCB Chairman, Textile Secretary, various bankers, and NBR officials, he managed to send his samples to buyers. Their continued support and encouragement helped him achieve success, paving the way for the country’s RMG industry and inspiring other entrepreneurs. This dedicated assistance was instrumental in making the first export of RMG from Bangladesh a reality. Unfortunately, finding such supportive bankers, NBR officials, and bureaucrats is rare today, though many still work silently in various sectors.

Formation and Growth of BGMEA

The formation of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) in 1980 marked a significant milestone for the RMG sector. Initially, the BGMEA office was situated at Chawkbazar before moving to Purana Paltan. In its early years, BGMEA struggled to cover office expenses, relying on monthly donations that were insufficient to sustain operations. To address this, BGMEA approached the NBR with a proposal to grant them the authority to issue Utilization Declarations (UDs), allowing them to generate revenue through fees. The NBR accepted the proposal, officially granting BGMEA the right to issue UDs, which provided a steady income stream for the organization. This financial stability enabled BGMEA to grow and effectively support its members, contributing significantly to the industry’s development. Today, the revenue from issuing UDs, along with member fees, has made a substantial impact on BGMEA’s growth and capacity to serve the industry. This is an excellent example of the support from bureaucrats and NBR officials and their understanding of the industry’s needs in that time.

In 1994, the industry tackled the issue of child labor, successfully making the sector free from child labor by 1995. The MFA-quota system was instrumental in allowing the industry to take root and develop. When the quota system ended in 2004, many predicted a downturn for the industry, but Bangladesh’s RMG sector defied these predictions, growing stronger in the post-MFA era. By 2014-15, the apparel industry had become Bangladesh’s biggest export earner, with exports valued at over $25.49 billion.

Despite its successes, the RMG industry faced significant challenges, notably after the tragic building collapse in 2013. Many thought this disaster would mark the end of the industry, but it instead prompted a renewed focus on worker safety and sustainability. For the first time in the global garment industry, all stakeholders—governments, brands, buyers, suppliers, entrepreneurs, and workers—recognized that ensuring the safety and wellbeing of workers was a shared responsibility. This collective effort has made the industry safer and more sustainable. Contrary to the tragic events of the past, like Rana Plaza, many of our factories now meet international standards of safety and aesthetics. These facilities are a testament to our commitment to the well-being of our workers and the quality of our products positive strides and improvements in the Bangladesh RMG sector.

Impact of the Quota System and Open Competition

The growth of Bangladesh’s garment sector can be divided into two phases:

1. Quota System (Pre-2005): Under the Multi-Fibre Arrangement (MFA), Bangladesh enjoyed quota facilities, ensuring a guaranteed market for its garments. This period saw substantial growth in the industry, with entrepreneurs benefiting from assured market access.
2. Post-Quota System (Post-2005): The removal of the quota system in 2005 opened the industry to global competition. Despite initial challenges, Bangladesh’s garment sector thrived, with the number of factories increasing by 30% and the industry becoming more competitive internationally.

Challenges and Future Prospects

Despite the significant contributions of government policies and the dedication of entrepreneurs, the relationship between the RMG sector and key stakeholders, such as bankers and NBR officials, has deteriorated in recent years. Rebuilding these crucial relationships is essential for the continued growth and success of the industry. Recognizing and honoring the contributions of past leaders and government officials can inspire current and future generations to foster a supportive and cooperative environment.

Conclusion

The rise of Bangladesh’s apparel industry is a testament to the synergistic efforts of entrepreneurial innovation and robust government policy support. The strategic support from the government in terms of regulatory framework, infrastructure development, training initiatives, diplomatic efforts, and favorable policies created an enabling environment that allowed the industry to flourish. The success of Bangladesh’s garment sector highlights the interplay between private sector initiative and strategic government interventions.

As we reflect on this journey, it is essential for the new generation and those outside the garment industry to understand the collaborative effort and visionary leadership that transformed the RMG sector into a cornerstone of Bangladesh’s economy, providing livelihoods for millions and contributing significantly to the nation’s GDP. Documenting these historical insights not only preserves the industry’s legacy but also provides valuable lessons for future generations. Strong relationships with NBR, bankers, and government officials are the backbone of the RMG industry, essential for its continued success and growth.

Author: Md. Salauddin, Director, Reaz Garments Ltd.

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Simple  homo-polymers may be synthesised according to the scheme below:

nNH2-Ar-COCl → [NH-Ar-CO]- n + nHCl

Aromatic polyamides became breakthrough materials in commercial applications as early as the 1960s, with the market launch of the meta-aramid fibre Nomex by DuPont which opened up new horizons in the field of thermal and electrical insulation. In the 1970s, based on an aromatic polyamide–hydrazine composition, Monsanto developed an aromatic co-polyamide fibre under the code X500 which almost reached the market. A much higher tenacity and modulus fibre was developed and commercialised, also by DuPont, under the trade name Kevlar in 1971. Another para-aramid, Twaron (Twaron is a registered product of Teijin), similar to Kevlar, and an aromatic co-polyamide, appeared on the market towards the end of the 1980s Teijin, after a remarkable scientific interpretation of the prior art by Ozawa and Matsuda, who pioneered the development of the aromatic co-polyamide fibre, commercialised the Technora (Technora is a registered product of Teijin) fibre.

This passage dives into the world of commercially available aramid compounds. Three main types are mentioned: MPDI (poly-(m-phenylene isophthalamide)), PPTA (poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide)), and ODA-PPTA (co-poly(p-phenylene-3,4-diphenyl ether terephthalamide)). For MPDI fibers, the most popular brand is Nomex (DuPont), while Kevlar (DuPont) reigns supreme for PPTA fibers. Teijin also offers Twaron (PPTA-based) and Technora (ODA-PPTA copolymer). Interestingly, the chemical makeup of Kevlar and Twaron is identical (PPTA). The standard method for creating aliphatic polyamides isn’t suitable for aramids due to their high melting points.  Therefore, a special process using NMP (N-methyl-pyrrolidone) and CaCl2 (calcium chloride) solvents is required to synthesize PPTA molecules from 1,4-phenylenediamine (PPD) and terephthaloyl dichloride (TDC) monomers.  Aramid production involves three stages: polymerization, filament yarn spinning, and conversion to usable fiber forms like staple, short-cut, or pulp. MPDI aramids are simpler to produce, using a low-temperature polycondensation process with m-phenylenediamine and isophthaloyl chloride in an amide solvent.  These fibers can be spun using either dry or wet methods.  In wet spinning, the polymer solution goes through tiny holes into a coagulating bath, followed by washing, stretching, and drying steps. Finally, Technora, a co-polymer aramid by Teijin, incorporates three monomers: terephthalic acid, p-phenylenediamine (PDA), and 3,4-diaminodiphenyl ether.  This ether monomer adds flexibility to the backbone chain, resulting in a fiber with slightly better compression properties compared to PPTA aramid fibers produced via the liquid crystal route.  An amide solvent with a small amount of calcium chloride or lithium chloride is used in this process.

Aramid Fiber Formation: A Twist on Wet Spinning

Aramids take a unique route when it comes to fiber formation, using a dry-jet wet-spinning system. This method differs significantly from the traditional wet-spinning process. In regular wet-spinning, the nozzle creating the fibers dips directly into a coagulating bath.  Dry-jet wet-spinning, however, takes a different approach. The aramid solution is extruded through a spinneret positioned just above the coagulating bath (usually water or diluted sulfuric acid). This air gap allows for further alignment of the polymer chains within the solution before it starts to solidify. The specific design of the spinneret capillary and the air gap work together to induce a rotation and alignment of the polymer domains. This results in highly crystalline and oriented fibers right from the start (as-spun fibers). The secret behind aramid’s remarkable strength and modulus (stiffness) lies in the anisotropy (directional dependence) of its solutions and the presence of liquid crystals within them. These factors contribute to an exceptionally high level of orientation and association between the polymer molecules.  Imagine long, strong chains all neatly lined up and tightly connected – that’s the key to aramid’s impressive properties.

The properties of Aramid Fiber: The Strength of Structure in Poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide), Poly(p-phenylene terephthalamide), often abbreviated as PPTA, owes its remarkable strength to its very rigid building blocks. These stiff “phenylene rings” are linked together in a specific “para” position, maximizing their stability. Another key advantage of PPTA is the presence of amide groups stationed like beads along its long backbone. These amide groups act like tiny magnets, attracting neighboring PPTA chains through a powerful force called “hydrogen bonding.” This extensive sideways bonding between chains creates a super-stable network, contributing significantly to the material’s strength. Here’s a point to remember: similar materials called “meta-aramids” don’t quite reach the same level of strength as PPTA. This is because the way their chains are linked (in a “meta” position) makes them more flexible, resembling textile fibers. While they may not be the strongest, meta-aramids offer excellent thermal stability, making them valuable in different applications.

Chemical Quirks of Aramid Fibers:- Aramids are all drawn together by a common thread – the “amide link.” This special connection loves water (hydrophilic), but the amount of moisture absorbed varies depending on the specific aramid. For example, PPD-T (poly-phenylene terephthalamide) fibers are champions when it comes to resisting many nasty chemicals like organic solvents and salts. However, strong acids can be their kryptonite, causing a significant loss of strength. Dyeing aramids can also be a tricky business. Their high “Tg” (glass transition temperature) makes them stubborn when it comes to taking on color. Here’s another interesting fact: the aromatic structure of para-aramids makes them susceptible to reactions with oxygen when exposed to ultraviolet light. This can lead to a change in color and, unfortunately, a decrease in their strength.

Aramid’s Thermal Resilience :- Aramids are not like other materials – they don’t melt in the traditional sense. Instead, they decompose at high temperatures. Setting them on fire is no easy feat either, thanks to their low “oxygen index values.”Impressively, some aramid types can retain around 50% of their strength even at scorching temperatures of 300 degrees Celsius.  They also boast high crystallinity, which means they barely shrink even when the heat is on. This makes them ideal for applications where maintaining their shape under high temperatures is crucial.

Mechanical Property: Aramid yarn packs a serious punch!  With a breaking tenacity of 3045 MPa, it boasts a strength more than 5 times that of steel underwater (and 4 times stronger even when dry). That’s double the strength of glass fiber or nylon!  This incredible toughness comes from a winning combination of factors: the aromatic and amide groups within its structure, and a highly ordered crystalline arrangement.Here’s the amazing part: aramid retains its strength and elasticity (modulus) even at scorching temperatures as high as 300 degrees Celsius. Imagine staying strong and flexible even in the heat! Aramid behaves predictably under tension, stretching like a spring within a certain range. However, when it comes to sharp bends, it exhibits a non-linear plastic deformation –  meaning it won’t spring back perfectly but might take on a permanent bend.But that’s not all! Aramid is a champion of endurance. Under repeated stress (tension fatigue), it shows no signs of failure even at remarkably high loads and extended cycles. Talk about impressive stamina!  And to top it off, aramid experiences minimal creep strain (only 0.3%), meaning it resists deforming under constant load over time.  This makes it ideal for applications that demand unwavering stability.

Aramid fibers, with their remarkable strength and heat resistance, have woven their way into a wide range of applications. In the aviation industry, they’re used for everything from airplane panels to parachutes. Their impressive strength makes them ideal for ropes and cables, from mooring lines for massive ships to delicate wires in electronic devices. Aramid fibers even play a role in construction, reinforcing concrete and suspending bridges. The automotive industry utilizes them for car parts and tires, while sporting goods like hockey sticks and skis benefit from their durability. Even medical applications and everyday items like conveyor belts and fireproof clothing rely on the unique properties of aramid fibers.

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High strength to weight ratio:- Carbon fiber has rocketed to fame for a reason: it’s incredibly strong for its weight. Imagine holding a feather and a baseball in each hand. Carbon fiber packs the punch of the baseball while remaining surprisingly light like a feather. This exceptional strength-to-weight ratio makes it a favorite in industries where keeping things light and strong is crucial.  Think airplanes soaring effortlessly through the sky or race cars zipping around the track – carbon fiber plays a key role in their construction.Carbon fiber stands out in the world of materials because of its incredible strength for its weight. Imagine holding a feather and a baseball in each hand – that’s the kind of difference carbon fiber offers!

Stiffness:- Beyond its impressive strength, carbon fiber boasts remarkable stiffness. Just like a sturdy ruler barely bends, carbon fiber resists bending under pressure. This rigidity makes it ideal for applications where maintaining precise shapes is essential. Imagine a giant telescope peering into the depths of space – carbon fiber helps ensure its structure remains stable for those mind-blowing observations.This stiffness, measured by its Young’s Modulus, makes carbon fiber reinforced plastic over four times stiffer than its glass fiber counterpart, and nearly two and a half times more rigid than aluminum.

Rust and corrosion resistant:-  Carbon fiber also boasts an impressive resistance to rust and corrosion. Unlike metals that can succumb to the elements, carbon fiber stands strong. This makes it a valuable material in environments where harsh conditions reign supreme.  Think boats battling salty seas or buildings braving harsh weather – carbon fiber offers long-lasting performance. However, it’s important to note that the surrounding materials, like the glue holding the carbon fiber together, might need some extra protection from the sun.

Electric Conductivity:- Carbon fiber conducts electricity, which can be both helpful and bothersome. In boat building, for instance, this conductivity needs to be considered just like aluminum’s.  This electrical flow can accelerate corrosion in metal fittings attached to the carbon fiber.  However, careful installation techniques can minimize this issue.

Fatigue Resistance:-Carbon fiber composites are good at resisting wear and tear from repeated stress. However, when they do break, it often happens suddenly without much warning.  Imagine a rubber band that snaps unexpectedly – that’s similar to how carbon fiber can fail under repeated stress.  Research shows that the direction of the fibers plays a role in how likely they are to break under repeated stress, and carbon fiber outperforms fiberglass in both its resistance to fatigue and its overall strength and stiffness.

High Tensile Strength:-Tensile strength refers to how much pulling force a material can withstand before it breaks or stretches too much. Imagine stretching a taffy candy – the point where it starts to become noticeably thinner is similar to the “necking” mentioned earlier.  This strength is measured in force per unit area.  Because carbon fiber is brittle, it might not always break at the exact same force due to tiny imperfections within the material.  To test its tensile strength, engineers take a sample of the fiber with a specific width and gradually pull on it with increasing force until it breaks or changes shape. Since these fibers are incredibly thin, they are usually combined with other materials to create a composite material that’s easier to test.

Heat Resistant and Versatile:- Carbon fiber’s resistance to fire makes it a valuable asset in various applications. Depending on its manufacturing process, carbon fiber can be incorporated into firefighter gear, often with a nickel coating for added protection.  This fireproof quality also makes it suitable for environments where flames and corrosive materials might be present.  Imagine a fire blanket – carbon fiber’s fire resistance makes it a perfect choice for such life-saving equipment.

The thermal conductivity of carbon fiber varies depending on its specific type.  Some formulations excel at conducting heat, while others are designed to insulate.  Researchers are constantly working on improving this property to create even more versatile applications.

Keeping Cool Under Pressure: Minimal Expansion:- Carbon fiber boasts a low coefficient of thermal expansion. In simpler terms, this means it doesn’t significantly change shape when temperatures fluctuate. This makes it ideal for situations where maintaining precise dimensions is crucial. Imagine a giant telescope – even slight changes in temperature could throw off its delicate alignment, but carbon fiber helps ensure its stability for accurate observations.

Medically Marvelous: Safe and X-Ray Friendly:- Carbon fiber’s biocompatible nature makes it a promising material for medical applications. Because it’s not harmful to living tissues, it’s being explored for use in prosthetics, implants, and even tools used during surgery.  Imagine a broken bone needing a replacement – carbon fiber could potentially be used to create a safe and functional implant.  Another advantage is that carbon fiber allows X-rays to pass through easily,  which is crucial for doctors to monitor healing progress.  However, it’s important to note that while the fibers themselves are not poisonous, they can be irritating to the skin, so proper handling is necessary.  The surrounding materials, like the glue (also known as the matrix) used with carbon fiber, might also contain toxins, so caution is required.

Pricey But Practical: Weighing the Costs:- Carbon fiber boasts exceptional strength, stiffness, and lightweight properties. However, its price tag can be a drawback.  Unless the weight savings are absolutely essential, like in airplanes or race cars, the higher cost might not be justifiable.  On the flip side, carbon fiber requires minimal maintenance, which can translate to long-term savings.  There’s also a certain allure associated with carbon fiber – its sleek look can make it a desirable material, even if it comes at a premium.  In some cases, you might even need less carbon fiber compared to other materials like fiberglass, potentially offsetting some of the cost.

Brittle Beauty: A Trade-Off:- While carbon fiber is incredibly strong, it’s also brittle. Imagine a twig snapping easily – that’s similar to how carbon fiber can break under certain conditions. This brittleness is a trade-off for its other impressive properties.  However, researchers are constantly working on improving carbon fiber’s toughness to make it an even more versatile material.

The post Strength, Lightness, and More: Exploring the Properties of Carbon Fiber appeared first on Textile Focus.

This innovative textile technology was developed by the research team led by Prof. Kinor JIANG, Professor of the School of Fashion Textiles at PolyU, using developed metallising technology to place ultra-thin, nano-scale metal films onto textiles. Without discharging any polluted water or chemicals, the non-aqueous process results in textiles that are not only visually stunning but also sustainable. For this collection, the PolyU team created a precious gold and silver coated sustainable silk organza with a metallic pearly sheen while maintaining the comfort and flexibility of traditional textiles.

The collaboration with AELIS, renowned for its artful designs and sustainable approach to fashion, reflects PolyU’s commitment to advancing textile technology and its applications in the fashion industry. The integration of PolyU’s metal-coated textiles into AELIS Couture’s designs reveals a collection that embodies both style and state-of-the-art technology.

Prof. Christopher Chao, Vice President (Research and Innovation) of PolyU said, “We are thrilled to partner with AELIS for their Fall/Winter 2024/25 Couture Collection. The collaboration with AELIS Couture is a shining example of how PolyU’s research can be translated into real-world applications, bridging the gap between technology and artistry in fashion. We are proud to see our sustainable innovations contribute to the creation of couture that is as technologically advanced as it is beautiful.”
Sofia Crociani, Founder of AELIS, expressed her excitement at the partnership, “For AELIS Couture, the project with PolyU, born after a cycle of ‘sustainable lectures’ jointly organised by PolyU and the French Consulate in Hong Kong, is the result of a wonderful effort to advance in the ecological and technological research field. Working with PolyU has been an inspiring journey. Their precious metal-coated textiles have allowed us to explore new dimensions of design and sustainability. We are proud to present a collection that reflects the synergy between PolyU’s technological expertise and our commitment to eco-conscious couture.”

Through this international collaboration, PolyU joins hands with AELIS to make a bold statement in the fashion world, showcasing the potential of merging sustainability with luxury art-to-wear. The AELIS Fall/Winter 2024/25 Couture Fashion Show that took place during the “haute couture week” in Paris represents an event where innovation meets grace and elegance, setting a new standard for the future of couture.

The issuer is solely responsible for the content of this announcement.

The post PolyU and AELIS Couture forge innovative partnership for Fall/Winter 2024/25 Couture Collection appeared first on Textile Focus.